唐山南部近海海浪特征及风浪预报方法分析研究-海洋预报

唐山南部近海海浪特征及风浪预报方法分析研究

单位：1. 曹妃甸工业区气象局, 河北唐山 063015;
2. 唐山市气象局, 河北唐山 063000

分类号：P731.22

出版年·卷·期（页码）：2016·33·第三期（27-33）

摘要：

利用唐山南部近海浮标站的观测资料,对该海域的海浪特征、风浪浪高预报方法及主要海区风浪成长时有效波高与风速、风区、风时之间的关系做了分析。结果表明:(1)唐山南部海域海浪类型以风浪为主,风速大于12.4 m/s 的浅水波均为风浪,低于12.4 m/s 风速的深水波存在30%比例的涌浪;(2)波高≥2 m的风浪多由具有较长风区的NE、ENE风产生,二者占总数的76.9%,且多出现在秋冬季,所占比例高达83.4%;(3)受风区长度限制,NE、ENE方向上风力大于5 级时,该海区内的风浪不能达到充分成长状态;(4)整体而言,“苏联法”对唐山南部近海1.5—2.0 m的风浪波高计算表现出明显的优越性,“海大法”更适合2.0 m以上浪高的计算;(5)不同海区、不同波高范围的计算方法检验显示,对于有效波高≥2 m的风浪,“海大法”对NE、ENE、E 方向上的计算效果最佳,SE、SSE 方向上大浪出现的几率较低,对于其他方向的海区和波高范围,“苏联法”仍然表现出了理想的适用性。

Based on the buoy station observation data in the coastal waters of the south region of Tangshan, the wave features, wind wave height forecasting methods and the relationships among effective wave height, wind speed, wind fetch length and wind duration under the growth of wind wave in the main sea zones are statistically analyzed. The results are as following: (1) the wave type is given priority to wind-wave, and all of the shallow water waves formed by wind speed greater than 12.4m/s are sea waves, but there are 30% swell waves in deep water waves formed by wind speed less than 12.4m/s. (2) Rough sea wave height bigger than 2m is mostly formed by NE and ENE wind possessing longer wave fetch length, 76.9% of the total, and mostly appears in autumn and winter, with the 83.4% proportion. (3) Restricted by the wind fetch length, when the wind-force level is bigger than 5 at the NE and ENE direction, the wind wave will not reach the fully growing state. (4)“Sulian Method”shows obvious superiority in the calculation of the wave height between 1.5m and 2.0m.“Haida Method”is more suitable for the calculation of wave height bigger than 2.0m. (5) Computing methods about different sea zones and wave height ranges show that for the rough wave height that may causing disaster,“Haida Method”works best at NE、ENE、E direction. There is a low appearance probability at SE and SSE direction, but for the other directions and wave height ranges,“Sulian Method”still shows the ideal applicability.

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