基于Boussinesq方程近岸波浪演变的数值研究-海洋预报

基于Boussinesq方程近岸波浪演变的数值研究

单位：1. 国家海洋环境预报中心, 北京 100081;
2. 国家海洋局海洋灾害预报技术研究重点实验室, 北京 100081

关键词：Boussinesq型方程近岸波浪模型缓坡方程SWAN模型 Coulwave模型

分类号：P731

出版年·卷·期（页码）：2012·29·第四期（7-17）

摘要：

首先对目前描述近岸波浪传播变形的数学模型进行了回顾与总结;对不同数学模型的特点、适用范围和发展情况进行了阐述与对比.应用基于Boussinesq方程的Coulwave模式针对几个经典实验地形进行了数值实验,数值结果和实验实测数据吻合较好.此外,分别采用不同的近岸波浪模型模拟了某渔港附近波浪的传播变形,结果表明:当考虑波浪的折射、绕射、反射联合作用时,Coulwave模式计算结果明显较缓坡方程及SWAN模型计算结果更加合理.

The paper reviewed several advanced mathematical models that can be used for the description of wave deformation in port and coastal engineering.The different features of mathematical models,the applicable scale and the evaluation were discussed.The Coulwave(Cornell University Long and Intermediate Wave Modeling) model,based on Boussinesq-type equations,is used to simulate the wave propagation and deformation for several classic topography experiments with specific incident waves.The numerical results agree well with the experimental data.In addition,we compared the results of Coulwave with the SWAN and models with mild-slope equation.The results show that:when considering the interaction of the wave refraction,diffraction,reflection,Coulwave model shows high performance than the model based on mild-slope equations and SWAN model.

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