浙江舟山海域实测波浪特征分析-海洋预报

浙江舟山海域实测波浪特征分析

单位：1. 自然资源部宁波海洋中心, 浙江宁波 315000;
2. 舟山市海洋环境监测预报中心, 浙江舟山 316022;
3. 自然资源部花鸟山东海-大气-生态综合野外科学观测研究站, 上海 201306;
4. 自然资源部东海预报减灾中心, 上海 201306

关键词：舟山海域波浪特征实测数据频谱分析波浪谱

分类号：P731.22

出版年·卷·期（页码）：2026·43·第四期（61-72）

摘要：

研究基于浙江舟山海域嵊山和朱家尖两个观测站2018—2023年长期连续实测波浪数据，综合运用统计分析、频谱分析及极端事件识别等方法，系统分析有效波高、平均周期、主波向等波浪要素的统计规律、季节性变化及对台风、寒潮等极端事件的响应特征。研究结果表明：观测海域波浪受季风和台风共同控制影响，特征呈现显著的季节性差异与空间分异。冬季受强西北季风主导，以西北向风浪为主，平均有效波高达到1.8 m，平均波周期为5.2 s；夏季盛行东南向涌浪，平均有效波高最小为0.9 m，平均波周期最长为6.8 s。频谱分析表明，冬季风浪谱与JONSWAP谱拟合良好（R²=0.93），夏季涌浪谱更接近P-M谱分布。2019年台风“利奇马”观测期间最大波高为8.5 m，波周期达到12.3 s，波浪谱呈现显著低频能量集中（主峰频率0.07～0.15 Hz）和方向性增强的特征。受岛屿地形遮蔽效应影响，近岸站有效波高较外海站平均衰减约19.1%，主波向分布更为分散。季风与台风是驱动舟山海域波浪时空变化的核心动力因子，而复杂岛屿地形是导致波浪从外海向近岸传播过程中能量衰减与频谱形变的关键地理因素。

Based on the long-term continuous measured wave data from 2018 to 2023 at two observation stations, namely Shengsan and Zhujiajian in the Zhoushan sea area of Zhejiang Province, this study comprehensively used methods such as statistical analysis, spectral analysis, and extreme event identification to systematically analyze the statistical laws, seasonal variations, and response characteristics of wave parameters,including significant wave height, mean period, and main wave direction, to extreme events such as typhoons and cold waves. The results show that the waves in the Zhoushan sea area are jointly controlled by the monsoon and typhoons, with significant seasonal differences and spatial variations in characteristics. Dominated by the strong northwest monsoon in winter, the sea area is mainly characterized by northwest wind waves, with an average wave height of 1.8 m and a wave period of 5.2 s. In summer, southeast swell waves prevail, with the minimum average wave height of 0.9 m and a wave period of 6.8 s. Spectral analysis shows that the winter wind wave spectrum fits well with the JONSWAP spectrum（R²=0.93）, while the summer swell wave spectrum is closer to the P-M spectrum distribution. During the observation period of Typhoon Lekima in 2019, the maximum wave height reached 8.5 m, and the wave period hit 12.3 s. The wave spectrum showed significant characteristics of low-frequency energy concentration（peak frequency ranging from 0.07 to 0.15 Hz） and enhanced directionality.Affected by the shielding effect of island topography, the wave height at the nearshore station is attenuated by about 19.1% on average compared with that at the offshore station, and the wave direction distribution is more scattered. This study points out that monsoons and typhoons are the core dynamic factors driving the temporal and spatial variations of waves in the Zhoushan sea area, while the complex island topography is the key geographical factor leading to energy attenuation and spectral deformation during wave propagation from the open sea to the nearshore.

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